Versace’s fashion campaigns - evolution between the 90s and now.

My ongoing fascination with the 90s continues today through the prism of Versace! I like revisiting the history of fashion photography and see how things have changed - have we become more brave or more unified in our approach? Are we doing anything differently?

In my previous post I took a look at Chanel’s campaign with Vanessa Paradis for their COCO perfume. The video and the images produced for it showcase high fashion sense of luxury and opulence through an abstract world actually build in the real life (no AI here please:). This week, I wanted to take a look at Versace and the brand’s campaigns from the 90s to see if anything changed in their approach nowadays.

The Supermodel Phenomenon

In the 1990s, supermodels came to prominence and became celebrities of their own kind. Their status elevated everything they touched - some appeared in Coca Cola ads, others in music videos. Gianni Versace recognised the magnetic appeal of supermodels—figures like Naomi Campbell, Claudia Schiffer, Cindy Crawford, and Christy Turlington—and consistently featured them in his campaigns.

This approach capitalised on the evolving celebrity status of these models, and showcased the high glamour and bold aesthetics of the brand. They appeared both in the advertisements and Versace’s runway shows, blurring the lines between fashion and popular culture at the time. The phenomenon not only catapulted the models into household names, but ensured Versace’s reach to the masses.

Aesthetic Boldness

Looking back at Versace's 1990s campaigns, what I love about the clothes and images, is that they were characterised by vibrant colours, daring cuts, and provocative themes - they immediately stand out and attract attention. Photographers like Richard Avedon and Steven Meisel captured the essence of the brand through striking imagery that exuded confidence and sensuality, but also an element of playfulness. Combined with the use of bold patterns, luxurious fabrics, this created a visual feast that was both memorable and instantly recognisable. This distinctive aesthetic not only set Versace apart from contemporaries but also established a new standard for fashion advertising.

Evolution to Contemporary Campaigns

Comparing Versace's 1990s campaigns to its modern advertising reveals both continuity and evolution. While the brand maintains its signature boldness and glamour, contemporary campaigns often feature a more diverse range of models, reflecting current societal shifts towards inclusivity. The aesthetic has also adapted, with modern campaigns incorporating minimalist elements alongside traditional opulence, appealing to both legacy customers and newer, younger audiences.

Examining Versace's current campaigns reveals an evolution in design towards a more refined and elegant aesthetic, moving away from the vibrant amalgamation of colours and patterns that characterised the 1990s. Despite these changes, a consistent element bridging these eras is the strategic use of minimalist backdrops that emphasise the models. Versace's 1990s campaigns were pioneering in their fusion of fashion, celebrity, and art. Their success was rooted in a deep understanding of cultural currents and a fearless approach to design and marketing.

However, the brand’s current creative approach reflects a noticeable shift alongside its evolving clothing designs. While today’s collections are undeniably chic, elegant, and more refined — in line  with contemporary trends — the stripped-back simplicity of the creative direction often undercuts their impact in my opinion. The frequent use of grey, minimalist backdrops one can see in their 2024 campaigns, tends to mute the statement the pieces could make. Although Versace occasionally incorporates external locations for variety, I feel the dominance of plain settings feels like a missed opportunity to enhance the allure of the clothing.

Dare to be brave?

It’s a bold and consistent choice for a luxury brand. Both then and now, Versace's campaigns are distinguished by their understated set designs and focused aesthetics, creating a distinctive and easily recognisable brand identity that endures. But it does feel quite underwhelming and lacking of a fresh breath of energy and intrigue. I think Versace could afford to be a bit more bolder in its choices whilst still keeping in line with their art direction that’s been established in the past.